RailHead BBQ: March Madness Cinderella Story

By Tyler Jones

March 18, 2015

Sometimes the best things in life rest under rocks that have never been turned over; take great BBQ, for instance. This entry begins far away from the heat of the smoker, though: in fact, the “polar” opposite. Thursday March 5, 2015: the Southern Methodist University front office sends out an e-mail early in the morning declaring an official snow day. All activities for the day would be cancelled including the much-anticipated trip to Fort Worth by the Lambda Chi Alpha Associate Member class to see our mentor Federal Judge Robert Means. The 4 inches of snow covering the icy streets of the Metroplex guarded any safe travel, so the trip was declared delayed. On such a cold, windy day, all we could think about was the BBQ dinner we were rumored to be partaking in that night. Thoughts of steaming smoke created an imaginary blanket that coated all of our frigid bodies. Where were we going to eat? We had no idea! But in a state full of excellent BBQ, we knew Judge Means would not let us down.

Almost two weeks later, after a much-needed Spring Break trip to BBQ-dry Arizona, I had moist brisket and tender pork ribs on my mind. Thankfully, Junior Luke Twombly sent out a GroupMe notification around 10 a.m. on Wednesday March 18, 2015: “we will be visiting Judge tonight in Ft. Worth. He will show us around his courtroom and then take us out for BBQ.” To which I immediately responded: “Where?!” and then proceeded to rattle off Ft. Worth’s most famous joints including Cousin’s, Longoria’s, and Cooper’s. Twombly replied that we would definitely be going to Cooper’s. I was immediately overcome with an ecstatic demeanor; though it was not the original Cooper’s Pit BBQ in Llano, Texas, the stockyards version would certainly do. The famous Cooper’s pork chop was about to be devoured by yours truly.

Upon arrival at the Federal Courthouse in downtown Ft. Worth, Judge Means showed us around several courtrooms, and we even got to go in his own quarters: beautiful furniture, a large office space, and numerous awards outlined the palatial setting. It was very reassuring to see how successful the man is that battles day in and day out for your fraternity. But let’s get down to business—BBQ business. When he asked where we wanted to go, Twombly insisted we had made up our minds to go to Cooper’s; but Judge Means sighed and said, “I prefer Railhead.” Because we didn’t really have a choice to go against a native Ft. Worthian’s word, Judge spat out the directions to Railhead Smokehouse. So my buddies Joey, Mason, and I hopped in my 2014 white GMC Sierra (at this point the BBQ slab) and darted to the smokehouse. I was no doubt disappointed we were not going to Cooper’s, but at this point I was willing to try something new due to my watering mouth. I went for the usual—two meat plate with brisket and pork ribs. I was especially excited to try the ribs after Judge Means insisted it was their best item and when the pit master told me they were spareribs—my favorite of all BBQ cuisines. Ironically, my friend Joey and I had agreed to eat healthily just a few days before, but this is what I do: BBQ. The first bite of pork rib I took removed all remorse I had about skipping out on Cooper’s: these ribs rank at the top of my list. The tender, red, perfectly barked meat came right off the bone with just the slightest tug—a solid indication of the ideal pork rib. Also, you know they’re good ribs when Memphis BBQ snobs like Kirk and B-Rad rave about them: welcome to Texas! Needless to say I devoured the ribs. Next came the brisket—what I consider the true test of a BBQ joint just because perfecting it is such a task and an art. The brisket had a load of bark on it—something I genuinely approve of. But the brisket was no doubt over-smoked and rather dry. Flavor was lacking, but I did have one moist bite and I must admit it was rather good. I would be willing to try it again, but I would be very picky about the cut they give me off the block. Additionally, the BBQ beans and coleslaw were good, but nothing to rave about like the beans from Joseph’s Riverport in Jefferson, Texas.

After long political conversations with Judge Means, we all hit the road back to the better of two cities. The afternoon was enjoyable and a new gem was uncovered. Don’t sleep on Railhead BBQ.